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Rick Andrews and other experts answers guitar repair questions
For almost one year, guitar luther Rick Andrews answered your guitar repair questions. After recieving over 500 questions we put together the most popular questions and answers. Today, we are involving other great guitar builders and will continue to expand this area in the future. This section will no longer be interactive but you should find most of your guitar building and repair questions have already been answered in this section.

Special Note!
We are now stocking and selling electric guitar kits. By establishing a working relationship with two manufacturing plants we now offer many electric guitar kits. Some of the styles include the Telecaster, Stratocaster, Explorer, Flying V, Les Paul, PRS, and the Warlock. More will be added every couple months. If you are looking to find an inexpensive alternative to purchasing a new guitar you might want to consider a guitar kit from your friends at EvO:R.

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  •   Setting up the bridge for a Les Paul Guitar

    By Open Source


    The scale length of your neck is what determines correct placement of the bridge. To find the scale length measure from the fretboard side of the nut ( the grooved plastic or bone strip near the end of the neck that holds the strings in place ) to the center of the twelfth fret. That measurement is exactly one half of the total scale length.

    So for example if the measurement from the nut to the center of the twelfth fret is 12 and 3/8 inch, the scale length would be 2 times 12 and 3/8th's or 24 and 3 /4 inches.Theoretically the saddle ( the part of the bridge that supports the string ) would be located at exactly the total scale lengths distance from the nut. Because the string stretches when fretted and rises in pitch the string length is increased beyond theoretical to flatten the string's notes to compensate. Because the string's require more compensation as they get larger in diameter, that is why the bridge is angled. This angle approximates proper compensation allowing the saddles to remain closer to the middle of their adjustment range.

    For best intonation the high "E" string length should be about 1/32nd's of an inch longer than theoretical scale length and the low "E" strings length should be about 1/8th of an inch longer than theoretical. The correct string length for the other strings will be about plus 3/64th's inch on the "B" string, 5/64th's on the "G" string, 1/16th inch on the "D" string and 3/32nd's inch longer on the "A" string. These dimensions are approximations and will vary slightly depending on string gauge and action ( the height of the strings above the frets ), but these dimensions will be close enough for the guitar to play in tune well.

    To locate where to drill your mounting stud holes first layout a center line and the high and low "E" string lengths as described above. ( I like to put painters tape on the body to draw my marks on) Next place the high and low "E" saddles in the center of their adjusment range. Now align the bridge with the center line and position so the "E" saddles are at the string length marks (double check this!). Then using a drill bit exactly the size of the bridge mounting holes put the bit in a mounting stud hole and give it a couple twists by hand just enough to make a mark making sure the bridge doesn't move. Then drill the hole the appropriate size for the stud (using a drill press would be best) and install it. You will need to tap this hole for a 6/32 thread for the ABR-1 style bridge.

    Finally put the bridge on the installed stud, locate the "E" saddle on the unmounted end to the correct position and mark the stud location as before. Drill and install the other stud and you should be in business! The tail piece is installed the same way only not angled. Hope this is clear and that it helps you.


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