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Welcome to EvO:R Entertainment
Rick Andrews and other experts answers guitar repair questions
For almost one year, guitar luther Rick Andrews answered your guitar repair questions. After recieving over 500 questions we put together the most popular questions and answers. Today, we are involving other great guitar builders and will continue to expand this area in the future. This section will no longer be interactive but you should find most of your guitar building and repair questions have already been answered in this section.

Special Note!
We are now stocking and selling electric guitar kits. By establishing a working relationship with two manufacturing plants we now offer many electric guitar kits. Some of the styles include the Telecaster, Stratocaster, Explorer, Flying V, Les Paul, PRS, and the Warlock. More will be added every couple months. If you are looking to find an inexpensive alternative to purchasing a new guitar you might want to consider a guitar kit from your friends at EvO:R.

  •  See the guitar Kits Here



  •  Questions about a Fretless bass neck

    hi I purchased a bass neck from mighty mite for a bass i am making, its p-bass style, i ordered the MM2919 kind (if u feel like looking it up) . its fretless and its for a four string, I know its long scale, but how far should it be from nut to bridge ? thanks for your help. --phil ps. the only reason i have confusion is because its fretless so i dont know how to tell, also when everyone is telling me 34.15 inches the bass i own curently is more towards 35 (its a yamah, i know their bad thats why im making a new one) also its a fretless withought the drawn in frets so all have is that dots along the side of the neck to look at. help!

  •   Rick Andrews Answers Your Question Below.

    Answers for Phil:

    Hi Phil, Anytime patner,
    First be very certain that the dot is the same spot the 12th fret normally would pinch of the string. There may be side markers where the frets normally are. I like those kind so when you look down at it you know to finger it between the lines which puts the finger in the middle. If you are absolutely sure the dot is where the fret normally would be then you are correct. Double that distance to the place where the bridge nut actually pinches the strings. Measure carefully from the front face of the nut which is the point zero where the string is pinched at open note E, A, D, G.

    You can actually make the body as a big square block and go ahead and route out for the neck plate. Bolt the neck into the body block, slap on the tuners. Temporarily put the strap button on the end of the block where it will end up anyway. Now this may sound funky and funny but get some heavy string or cord and tie around the strap button leaving two long ends. Take the two long ends and thread them thru the screw holes on the bridge. Now you can tie the bridge so it will be held in place. String 'er up, hehe, sounds like a bad girlfriend thing, string 'er up and check the distance or intonation by a tuner. This will let you test your spots until you know you have the magic spot.

    Once you know you are located precise enough you can now mark the screw hole locations right thru the screw hole on the bridge whil it is there. Now take everything back off, not the girl friend, and now you can draw out your body patern even while the neck is still attached. Remove the neck and you are ready to cut out the body. No way to miss that way. Remember to make the bridge set where the distance is measured to the bridge between the A and D string, right between them. This is a way to strike and average because as you have noticed I'm sure that the bridges on guitars and basses each saddle on the bridge ends up at different locations slightly.

    Usually the low E will be adjusted more toward the butt end end of the body, there we go again thinkin abiout women, and the G string, there we go again, is adjusted > slightly toward the neck end. The smaller strings nedd to be more toward the sharp side as the lower strings tend to need adjusting toward the flat side of their intonation. It's a string length / diameter thing that effects the intonation.This method will put your bridge located on the average and will give you plenty room for adjustment in either direction. The first guitar I built I ended up with plenty of adjustment room toward the sharp but not enough toward the flat. I needed to move the bridge back about 1/8" on the body. This can leave extra and ugly screw holes you don't want people to see so they know you messed up.

    Guess you could say you unscrewed up. You know this thing really gets squirly when you are glueing a fretboard on a neck block. The glue is very slick and the fretboard wants to slide all over the place as you clamp it down. I use line up pins (finishing nails) on the outside of the fretboard before it is profiled so it can't take a ski trip during the glue process. You'd be surprised at the tricks you will come up with to make things work well in the wondeful world of Luthierizzzzzzmmmmm. I luv it. Let me know how you come out on this.



    Andrews Guitars
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